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Old fashioned food in the Algarve

by Sun’s Dragon   

Nowadays, North Europeans and North Americans have become used to “sanitised” meat. We go into the supermarket and get plastic wrapped cuts of meat that bear no relation to the original animal. Whereas our mothers and grandmothers went to a butcher’s shop that actually smelled of meat, watched it being sliced or chopped into the cut that they wanted and received it wrapped in a piece of bloodied white paper.

dining out in the Algarve Portugal“Awful Offal” seems to be a common cry among the young folk, whilst our elders thrived on it. Hearts, brains, liver, kidneys, sweetbreads, brawn, tripe, chitterlings, faggots and tongue were all popular and went down a treat. Many of the dishes made from these organs have all but vanished from our menus; consequently, many of the old fashioned recipes have slowly disappeared on the whole and we don’t tend to eat the same as our forebears.Who remembers tripe and onions, braised and stuffed hearts or faggots with onion gravy?

I have noticed, however, that many of my expatriate contemporaries (old folk) relish tucking into these offal offerings in Portuguese restaurants, smacking their lips and bemoaning the fact that it’s almost impossible to buy the ingredients “back home”.

Portuguese recipes may differ from those that we once used but the basics are the same and still very popular here.

The following may not be classed as offal (the inside organs of an animal) but are still very popular in Portugal and used in many of the local dishes.

Rabbit (Coelho)

Portuguese stewBefore the advent of myxomatosis, deliberately introduced to exterminate the rabbit population, rabbit was a popular dish in the UK. However with the advent of this man-made disease, rabbits disappeared from our dinner tables for many years.

The Portuguese however, still eat and enjoy the delicate and delicious meat from this lovable animal and Thursdays and Sundays are the permitted hunting days in the Algarve, when the shots ring out all morning. Gone are the times when a man would shoot a rabbit or two to bring some meat to the table for the family; nowadays it’s a regular massacre in order to supply the local butchers with fresh rabbits to sell.

Braised, roasted and stewed rabbit are both popular and nourishing dishes incorporating plenty of garlic, herbs and vegetables and are commonly served in Portugal.

garlic from the Algarve Portugal

Pigs trotters (Porcospés)

I remember being served pigs trotters in Holland, way back in the early 60’s and I was horrified! These were the main meat for their famous Pea and Ham soup, but not any more it seems. However, the Portuguese love their pigs trotters and just as the Dutch used to do, often add a hock of ham to the stew (finances permitting) and instead of peas they use white beans and lots of spices. 

Pigs ears (Porcosouvidos)

Often a Pigs ear or even a snout are used in the typical fejoida (beans) soup or stew. Pigs ears can also be turned into a salad filled with herbs such as coriander and garlic.

Goat is also popular in Portugal and you will often find that when you order lamb chops, costeletas de cordeiro, in a restaurant here, they are actually goat chops, a completely different flavour. You may also find that on the menu goat chops, costeletas de cabrito, are in fact lamb chops, so you take your chances. I must say, lamb chops cooked on the Portuguese grill are the best in the world!

Algarvean Chorizo stew

Christmas specials

Bacalhau (dried salted cod) is always served on Christmas Eve in the Algarve and roasted goat (Cabrito) is a traditional Christmas dinner, especially for the village Festas (Festivals). Neither of which can be found in the UK.

Did you know that mince pies were once made with real minced meat? Cornish pasties were a way of taking a “cooked” lunch down the tin mines? Seaweed was a staple for the poor who “foraged” the beaches?

Oh, how our British recipes have changed throughout the years and our tastes are completely different to 70 years ago. Not so in Portugal it seems, where it’s still the norm to eat every animal from head to hoof with no part being wasted. Is this a good thing? You tell me.

 

 

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